(41) T’is the time to be jolly, and cold?

Many things happened this week. As usual, the news are showing problems that are too complex for individual to resolve, and too international for politicians to act on.

Can you believe that we are 8 billion people on Earth? It was only a generation ago that we were 7 billion, we know the problem with the planet and …

Well, I might go back to this latter, for the time being I can be hypocritical and watch a bit of the World Cup (and there I can not resist but talk about the destruction of a statue not too long ago on the west coast of England. Some rabbles were trying to rewrite History and decided to destroy the statue of a local famous Englishman who happened to have made his fortune on the back of slavery, benefiting from the transport and sale of slaves. My answer to this problem would be that History happened, do not be an ostrich and put your head in the sand, rather emphasize your point like building another statue next to the first one, thus completing it, representing an enchained slave. This would have completed the narrative and enriched the original statue while talking about the problem).

It is better to do like everybody else at this time and concentrate on what makes us feel good, our stomach and the people around us.

Cloisters of the Abbaye of Abondance

I can remember at this time of the year my mother doing some traditional dishes, and I should say that I did not know these were traditional at the time, with some simple dishes that I learnt to love. One of them was chicory with ham wrapped around and bechamel sauce all over, then serve warm after some time in the oven. Interesting, filling, and different dish all around, and a way for the kids to enjoy chicory, everybody is a winner.

Then you had the more classic French dishes like Beef Bourguignon, Blanquette de veau, and even a few times Fondue Savoyarde, with the last one requiring a bit of preparation and equipment. All of these dishes brought some anticipation on my part as I knew that something special was going on, that I was going to have a good meal well prepared, something special in brief.

I am a bit too old to have enjoyed all the marketing around the melted cheese dishes coming from the east of France, and historically from the south of Switzerland. These proved to be very popular as easy to prepare and enjoy, nourishing and savoury, winners all around.

So, there you are. And here are the dishes:

Raclette, Fondue, Tartiflette, Croque Monsieur or Madame, Morbiflette, Croziflette, and many dishes with a blue cheese sauce that goes very well with pasta but is a bit more ancient.

Then you have the classic American dish mac’n’cheese, but this is mostly made with processed cheese for conveninence, and believe me, this process cheese, like in the famous American fast-food dish world-wine known, is plasticky and rubbery and I personally find it absolutely revolting in a burger, taste wise and consistency wise, even more so when combined with the very unnatural and chemical tasting sauce used in the bestselling brand… I do not mind a burger, but without any bit of wheel in it please!

Please go to post 8 to read more about the diverse Raclette, their definition and specifications (visit www.cheesefromage.com).

Now, the beauty of the Raclette, Tartiflette, Morbiflette, and Croziflette is the diverse possibilities offered by these dishes. Obviously, these dishes are very good as they originally are. They are comfort food per excellence, nutritious and delicious, they can be accompanied by a nice glass of clean white wine, preferably light, or a light beer and even some tea if you prefer, anything but some water it is said.

I let you consult your prefer method of research if you need more information about each dish, my gaol is not to define dishes. However, there are many alternative to each dish, for a good raclette you can use some Morbier and try some Fourme d’Ambert; then again, you can use some roasted vegetables, it is quite good really, or you can try some carrots with your potatoes, this brings some sweetness. The good thing about it is that the kids can have some vegetables and enjoy them as well.

I like as well to prepare a dish with some potatoes, with or without some lovely cooked carrots, put them in a dish being able to be in an oven with some shallot or garlic (you can use some aromatic herb as well), and spoon some Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, or Mont d’Or, generously on the top before put the dish in the oven until the cheese has melted. This is very good with some cured meat or ham, and if inventive you can use some smoked fish as per your preference.

You will find different raclettes, the traditional ones are protected (and you found them in the post 8), but there are many others with the best made with milk obtained in altitude and well made in small production sites near mountains. The dish can use some pickles as well it is to be noted, or you use some mushroom maybe.

The latest traditional dish from Savoie to have been recognised is the Berthoud. It is based on Abondance cheese (this maybe the subject of a future post), and is a dish that has the merit to be traditional… or at least exists for just over a hundred years. Please read below for the full description of this dish.

To finish, as usual, I would recommend you to enjoy some cheese, but some traditional well-made cheese (and support democracy).

BERTHOUD

Intimately bound with Abondance cheese, Berthoud was created in a suburb of Thonon-les-Bains (74) named Concise. A family of this name had a small bar-restaurant, called “Le Cercle Républicain”, and were doing a dish which became famous out of its original area. The family was from the village of Abondance, and, obviously, used the cheese of their village of origin to prepare a dish based on an everyday comfort food well know within the Western Alps, but prepared their way and with panache!

The dish became a trademark of the area and perdured, it was known widely after the second world war and slowly made its way into large towns and the capital. It started to be known under this name just before the second world war, and then it was referenced in writing in 1978 first, and quite frequently during the 1980’s and 1990’s. finally it was recognised with a STG label in 2020.

The area of production of Berthoud is limited to the territory of the French Republic, being a Label Rouge. This said it is mainly prepared in the Savoie area or nearby.

As this is a dish, even if this is based on cheese, it needs to list the ingredients. So, to prepare it, you need for one person: 180g min. of Abondance AOP cheese, 3 to 4cl Vin de Savoie AOP, 1 to 2cl Madeira AOP or Port wine AOP, 1 garlic clove large enough to brush the whole of the china dish, pepper, and eventually a pinch of nutmeg; please note that no other ingredient is allowed for this recipe. To make the dish you need to brush the china dish first with the clove of garlic, the whole of the dish should be covered. Then take 180g of Abondance AOP cheese without the rind and cut it very thinly or grate it, to be put down on the dish. Use the Vin de Savoie AOP to pour on the top with some Madeira AOP or Port wine AOP depending on your preference or availability, and you could finish the dish with a pinch of nutmeg if you like but with some pepper. Place the dish in the oven, 180 to 200oc, for 8 to 15 minutes in order to cook and gratin it with a lovely golden crust. The dish must not be reheated but served straight away and microwave use is strictly forbidden to respect the TSG status and for best result.

China dish specifications: 12 to 15cm diameter, 2.5 to 4.5cm tall, base of at least 0.7cm; this helps dissipate the heat in the best way and guarantee formation of a good crust.

This dish is presented in a specific china dish, and once cooked it presents a golden to brown crust. This dish is intended to be eaten quickly as it deteriorates quickly when getting cold, it then becomes elastic and stringy which is not the best feel and texture to enjoy. The aroma is appetising and the look, as described before, attractive. The whole is fulfilling and pleasant, nice with a glass of wine and some bread if you like.

Safe keeping: respect instruction on packaging, use within the time indicated.